Scott’s miso-blackened salmon with seared pak choi and pickled ginger

Scott’s restaurant in Mayfair is paradise for a refined piscivore. Fresh fish, seafood and caviar are central to a lavish menu. The low-lit tables are situated around an elegant central oyster and champagne bar. While the timeless décor, clientele and ambience is as decidedly upper crust as the fare is upper crustacea.

As their website says, seasonal game, meat and vegetarian dishes also feature. Though, essentially, fish is the dish. So, in the spirit of all things piscine, my companion and I started with a little indulgence, and opted for the oscietra.

Caviar is a superb source of protein, Vitamin D and some Bs, as well as several essential minerals. As a food combiner, it would have been wise to avoid the blini that accompanied it. Yet sour cream is fine and – working on the psychological adage that a bit of what you fancy does you good – I savoured the individually crafted hors d’oeuvres with the relish of an oligarch’s wedding guest.

The mains, on the other hand, were purely protein based, which is one of the great assets of eating at a seafood restaurant. While I went off theme with a juicy seasonal duck and side dish of chervil buttered heritage carrots and shoots, my companion chose the miso-blackened salmon with seared pak choi and pickled ginger. This had a wonderfully varied taste and delicate texture, and which I shamelessly shared. I love ginger.

For drinks, the usual sparkling mineral water was accompanied by some champagne. My companion is a great fan of Ruinart, which I had long associated with older gentlemen in leather-backed chairs at their clubs in St. James’. But, how wrong had I been. The brut was a perfect complement to fish and game, from an extensive wine list designed to satisfy a discerning palate.

There were several keynotes to the evening. In addition to the usual quest to find fabulous fare that fits in with my food combining diet, there was the exploration of a seafood theme and the experience of a superior venue. And all three points merged harmoniously.

For those seeking the nutritional benefits of fine protein, classically presented with deep flavours in a refined setting, then Scott’s is – in every sense – an elegant and tasteful choice.

Health, pleasure, luxury – and rediscovering a classic drink. It wasn’t just the piscivores who had a good evening.

20 Mount Street
London W1K 2HE
http://www.scotts-restaurant.com/
Email: http://www.scotts-restaurant.com/booking/
Tel: 020 7495 7309

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The Abingdon, Kensington, London

A quick search for “gastro pub” on Wikipedia reveals “a bar and restaurant that serves high-end beer and food.”

The term was apparently coined in 1991 when David Eyre and Mike Belben took over The Eagle in Clerkenwell in London. I remember this place from my student days as the posh local with cotton napkins, silver cutlery, flowers on each table and drinks with descriptions. In other words, a date venue.

Now, the gastro pub is a standard feature across the UK, with some bespoke establishments as renowned for their food as top restaurants.

One of my favourites is The Abingdon in Kensington. It’s a gastro publissimo. Excellent venue, location, ambience, choice and quality of food and drink, superb service, spotless facilities and reasonable prices. Who could want more?

Set just off High Street Kensington in the white stuccoed elegance of W8, The Abingdon has the tranquil stylishness of a Victorian salon, with the modern focus of an underlit bar, and a cosy restaurant annex lined with booths for intimate but relaxed dining.

North Sea cod with tomato compote, shaved fennel and red pepper sauce

Google says the restaurant offers “imaginative combinations and an extensive wine list.” Though, ironically, the best part about this menu that caters for all tastes is its intrinsic simplicity, which in turn offers great flexibility.

As a food combiner, menus are often limiting because of the tendency to mix proteins and carbohydrates. But the Abingdon menu veers towards the Mediterranean concept of allowing a meat, fish or vegetable dish and its garnish to form the main meal, leaving the side options to the choice of the diner. Bliss.

Consequently, I have eaten more often here in the last three months than any other restaurant in London. Add to this the already noted fine location, ambience, service and cost, and you do have a combination – and it’s a winner.

Favourite starters from a weekly rotating menu include home smoked salmon with pickled beets, wasabi mousse and fennel salad, as well as seaweed salad with avocado and sesame dressing.

Of the white meat mains, the supreme of chicken with silverskin onions, oyster mushrooms and crispy kale is delicious, even without the suggested wholegrain mustard mash.

Creme brulee with shortbread

For the piscivores, I recommend the fabulous cured North Sea cod with tomato compote, shaved fennel and red pepper sauce, or cod with rocket pesto, radish, tenderstem broccoli, salsify, blood orange and tempura capers.

Of the varied side dishes, roasted broccoli, purple kale and cavolo nero are lightly prepared and fantastic for your folics!

And, for those with a sweet tooth, the desserts are also divine, including the relatively light options of crème brûlée and ice cream. While some excellent cocktails and a creative selection of wines add the final touch to fine meals.

The local hostelry has evolved from a tavern into a gastro pub. The Eagle had landed a brilliant idea. The Abingdon has refined it.

54 Abingdon Road
London W8 6AP
http://www.theabingdon.co.uk/
Email: Abingdon@btconnect.com
Tel: 020 7937 3339

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East meets West: Russian-inspired Modern British fare in a plush art deco setting. And there’s champagne…

After more than four years in Moscow, I’ve now been back in London for almost two – and had somehow managed to miss iconic Anglo-Russian restaurant and champagne bar Bob Bob Ricard. The levels of irony are not lost on me.

Dining at the glamorous art deco venue is like spending an evening on the Orient Express, mixing classic opulence with subterranean cool. Uniformed attentive staff serve a luxury Russian-inspired Modern British menu and cocktails in an intimate all-booth dining room.

And, if you haven’t heard this before, every table is also equipped with a “Press for Champagne” button, with more bubbly famously poured here than in any other UK restaurant. Utopia in Soho.

Anyway, back to the night’s three challenges: to discover a suitable birthday venue for my dinner companion. Tick. Find an appropriately elegant dress (any excuse). Tick. And to follow a menu that suits a food combining or healthy diet. Make that a delicious and triumphant third tick.

We broke combining ranks only for a special birthday treat: Siberian caviar, served traditionally with smetana and blini – sour cream and small pancakes. The blini were so light and fluffy, it was worth it (a one-off!) but the dinner would have been just as impressive, and combined perfectly, without them.

Both my companion and I opted for the same protein-based starters and main courses. The entrees were wafer-thin beetroot and goat’s cheese salad with broad beans and mint, which complemented in taste, colour and texture the caviar that had gone before it. The main course that then followed was excellent.

Happy birthday: a sparkling dessert to accompany the sparkling wine

We chose roast Norwegian cod – which melted in the mouth – garnished with fresh truffle, peas, lettuce, spring onion, aged balsamic and a pinch of curry, which added an extra dimension of flavour.

Side dishes of carrots and parsnips, roasted with honey and thyme, completed the spectrum of taste and nutrients as well as providing filling portions. Men, you will not go hungry.

Finally, as the staff knew we were celebrating a special event, they produced a birthday dessert, which tasted like strawberry dulce de leche and was fabulous, though alas we couldn’t finish it between us.

Three superb courses, champagne and minerals, the colourfully ornate setting plus the sparkling ambience meant our stomachs and senses were completely satisfied. A very happy birthday.

Bob Bob’s. So good, they named it twice.

1 Upper James Street
London W1F 9DF
http://www.bobbobricard.com/
Email: reservations@bobbobricard.com
Tel: 020 3145 1000

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La Burrata, La Morue and champagne for two

Only one thing beats the anticipation of knowing you have dinner booked at world class restaurant L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. And that is having an impromptu Sunday lunch there. That goes on until dinner.

The visual and culinary effect of this luxury West End brasserie is entirely dreamy. From the heady red and black décor and open kitchen to the multi-award winning food, writing about the experience allows me to openly indulge in adjectives such as sensuous, inventive and exquisite.

The fact that so many dishes are also in-keeping with my diet adds yet another mille-feuille layer of pleasure.

On a basic level, both my companion and I opted for protein-based meals, and the rest was left to the artistic interpretation of the chef. The photographs tell the visual story of beautiful, imaginative meals with incredible attention to detail, so I shall just provide the ingredients and their effect.

After a glass each of Veuve Clicquot – one brut, one rosé – I selected the La Burrata entrée, which was the Italian mozzarella and cream cheese, along with olive oil, tomato coulis and avocado. I chose not to have the optional caviar, and the range of tastes was still a feast for the palate as much as it was for the eyes.

Le Caviar

On the other hand, after enjoying his complementary foie gras taster, my companion opted for Le Caviar, and this was served on a soft poached egg in a crispy rice batter.

The small amount of rice didn’t hugely detract from a superb essentially protein-based meal. While we were completely absorbed by a plate trimmed with beads of caviar, and tiny pieces of smoked salmon and fennel.

My main course was La Morue, a melt-in-the-mouth cod fillet in an aromatic vegetable broth with a print of fresh herbs, which looked like a delicate piece of green chain mail protecting the fish. This sumptuous dish was accompanied by a fine Italian Pinot Grigio.

While my companion chose Le Bar, a seared sea bass with a confit of young fennel in a brown shrimp foam, which sounds slightly odd but the photo indicates it was as elegant as it was delicious. This was accompanied by a glass of an excellent French Blanc de Blancs, which made up for him skipping the signature mashed potatoes.

As if all this weren’t enough of a feast for the senses, we pushed a rare boat out and decided to have dessert, opting for the light La Mangue, a mango bubble with popping candy, crunch macadamia and passionata sorbet. Fabulous, and not too naughty. Honestly.

Le Bar

After three courses, we moved up to another of the three floors to the bar. This has its own leafy terrace, though being February we opted for the snug comforts of the firelit interior and relaxed in armchairs for a post-lunch refresher.

This went on for a little longer than we had anticipated.

Well, no one likes being woken up while they are dreaming.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
13-15 West Street, London WC2H 9NE
http://www.joelrobuchon.co.uk/
Email: reservations@joelrobuchon.co.uk
Telephone: +44 207 010 8600

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Coq au Vin: a classic combination at 45

For those of you who don’t know (and there can’t be many now), I follow the food combining diet. I do this for four big reasons: for pain-free and efficient digestion, to keep my weight consistently down, to boost my immune system, and to keep me looking (relatively!) young and healthy. And all that means plenty of energy, too. Personally, I don’t think you can beat it.

Briefly, the diet is based on not mixing foods that fight. In other words keeping mainly carbohydrate and mainly protein foods separate, eating fruit on its own, eating a “neutral” alkaline meal every day, avoiding processed food and drink where possible, and drinking at least two litres of water daily.

Sound complicated? Restrictive? Hard to maintain? Not at all, it just takes a bit of practice. Difficult to eat out, though? Again, no. And, in an effort to prove it, my intrepid companion and I went to the same restaurant over the course of a few days for lunch and dinner to show that menus can be as flexible to the discerning diner as they are tasty.

So, a few Saturdays ago we headed for 45 Jermyn Street, just off Piccadilly. And, as we both love beetroot, we started with a “neutral” red salad with baby beets and balsamic dressing.

The beauty of this dish means not only did we pack in some of our “five a day” but we could also choose either a carb or protein dish to follow it, as it combines well with both. The menu also offered salmon, squid, crab, vegetables, lobster or snails, so we didn’t choose a salad because there were few other options.

For the main course, we also both went for roasted aubergine with wilted Treviso and goat’s cheese, plus a side dish of autumn greens, including cabbage and kale.

So a wide range of vegetables and leafy greens, plus protein in the form of cheese. No potatoes, pasta, rice or quinoa in sight – and no need, as the dishes were filling and tasty. And there were other meat, fish and vegetarian options that were also carb-free, such as chicken with greens and ceps, as well as carb mains without protein, such as tagliatelle or pumpkin risotto.

Being a food combiner also doesn’t mean you have to avoid alcohol. A glass of Ruinart Rose mixed wonderfully with the aubergine. And the ever-present bottle of sparkling mineral water on the table means that fluids and clarity are maintained between courses!

Back for dinner a few days later, and we both went for proteins again but there were plenty of delicious carb options. I started with smoked salmon, minus the soda bread, then a superb coq au vin with generous side dishes of cauliflower cheese and autumn greens, which we shared.

My companion went for the chicory, shaved fennel and blue Vinney cheese salad, followed by the roasted aubergine again, as he enjoyed it so much first time.

This was accompanied by a fantastic Saint-Aubin burgundy, and we shared a treat (yes, even food combiners have them) in the form of a float: strawberry, neroli and orange blossom syrup, cognac, soda and peanut butter ice cream. A little bit of what you fancy does you good. Just a little…

And in Art Deco surroundings as tasteful as 45s, lunch or dinner is also an elegant and fulfilling experience in ambience and presentation, as much as it is in eating well – and in knowing that you can eat healthily.

45 Jermyn Street
London SW1 6DN
https://45jermynst.com/
Reservations: https://45jermynst.com/#reservation
Telephone: 020 7205 4545

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I love all things Italian, and especially the food. Natural, fresh, colourful, tasty and healthy ingredients, served in satisfying portions by enthusiastic staff in a convivial (and romantic) atmosphere. And then there’s the aperitivi, wine, minerals, coffee, desserts… Bliss.

And as a food combiner, eating out is a breeze as Italian dishes are traditionally served separately: appetisers, pasta, meat, fish and vegetables. Also, there isn’t a great deal of mixing proteins and starches, with pizza the obvious exception. Bruschetta or focaccia with olive oil and balsamic vinegar are a couple of fantastic carb-based alternatives. And additional Parmesan can also be avoided.

With all this in mind, I opted for dinner at Cicchetti’s in Covent Garden. The venue is part of the San Carlo Group of authentic Italian restaurants, and has recently been joined by celebrity chef Aldo Zilli.

So, my companion and I optimistically headed to the centre of town to share a fusion supper of Italian tapas. And, after being comfortably seated in the centre of the cosy, buzzing, candlelit restaurant, and immediately ploughing through some homemade bread with olives and tapenade as we scanned the menu, we stayed with the carb-based theme.

Personally, I think menus should be like CVs: one or two pages at most. Anything longer, and I find myself glazing over and swiftly asking my fellow diners for ideas I can pinch. Cicchetti’s does offer a wide choice, but on one big food-category-based page plus a few specials, which doesn’t befuddle the hungry, indecisive or impatient.

Pumpkin risotto. In a pumpkin. Delicious

Our choices were excellent in preparation and taste, and very filling of portion: bruschetta with yummy Sicilian Pachino tomatoes, garlic and basil; the surprisingly light purple cauliflower fried with onions, breadcrumbs and garlic; grilled aubergine with mint chilli and garlic (without the buffalo mozzarella); a delicate special of tagliatelle with butter sauce, garlic and black truffles; and a magnificent pumpkin risotto – in the middle of the small, tender-fleshed pumpkin itself – with a few more truffles. Delicious, and a delight to digest.

All this was accompanied by Prosecco, sparkling mineral water, and that relaxed, happy, well-fed feeling that children normally have after a Sunday at Grandma’s.

So, in Facebook terms, Cicchetti’s was a big “like.” Great food, great service, great atmosphere and great value for its central location. And there were plenty of Italians there. That says it all.

Cicchetti Covent Garden, 
30 Wellington Street, London WC2E 7BD
http://www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk/
Telephone: 020 7240 6339
Email: Cicchetti.coventgarden@sancarlo.co.uk
Open seven days a week, 8am – 12am,
 including bank holidays

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Quaglino’s. A Mayfair classic – and busy venue of choice during the holiday period. Yet two intrepid food combiners still went in search of two opposing food combinations, and our culinary wishes were met – with a dash of live music.

We were seated near the stage with two glasses of Veuve Cliquot as the evening’s entertainment got underway. My companion opted for carbohydrate-based dishes, and a starter of celeriac velouté, curried apple and sorrel salad was an unexpectedly tasty pleasure. It was followed by a fine winter shaved truffle risotto, without the 20-month aged parmesan to maintain a carbohydrate base.

In contrast, I went with protein-based dishes, and my starter was the delicate confit of wild salmon, with oyster leaf yoghurt, lemon gel and dill oil. My main course was duck breast with celeriac fondant, chili and almond tossed kale, and plum compote, which the staff were at pains to ensure was cooked to choice.

For me though, the highlights of the night were the opulent venue itself with its buzzing society ambience, our extremely attentive but unobtrusive waitress, and the wine – a superb Meurseult to complement the dishes, venue and champagne that encircled it. And the entertainment (who sat next to me).

An appropriate way to say farewell to a memorable year – and set the benchmark for another one.

Quaglino’s
16 Bury Street
London SW1Y 6AJ
http://www.quaglinos-restaurant.co.uk/
Reservations: http://www.quaglinos-restaurant.co.uk/book-a-table/
Telephone: 020 7930 6767

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My lucky number is 33. And then I discovered “34”

My lucky number is 33. And then I discovered “34”. Which, on many levels, was one better.

The understated Mayfair restaurant has the elegant and intimate interior associated with its sister restaurant “The Ivy,” complete with leather banquettes, oak floor and modern art, contrasted with a open kitchen so unobtrusive I didn’t notice it.

As the website says, that kitchen contains an authentic Argentinian charcoal grill, or parilla, leading me to think lunch would be like a visit to La Cabrera in Buenos Aires, or the kind of steakhouse for which royalty would queue. And somewhat wasted on this white-meat-eating food combiner.

It certainly wasn’t, as the imaginative head chef has developed his menu from the traditional beef to include poultry, fish and shellfish. And the effect is fabulous.

Both my companion and I went straight to the main course. He chose a light yet intensely flavoured chargrilled yellowfin tuna, with freekeh, spiced avocado, pink grapefruit and toasted pistachio.

I opted for the moreish spiced spatchcock chicken with pine nut and vegetable slaw, and we shared some incredible vegetable side dishes, which were a pleasure on their own. Delicious burnt carrots with honey and garlic crisps, purple sprouting broccoli with chilli and almond, and green beans with confit tomatoes, olives and parmesan.

Both main dishes were essentially protein-based – if you exclude the freekeh – a delight to the palate from first to last mouthful, and generous of portion. They were accompanied, and complemented, by glasses of Ruinart champagne (well, it was the holidays). Contemporary and classic. And, on every level, just perfect.

I have always been more of a diner than a lady that lunches as I can rarely find the time or inclination. But for 34, it would have been unlucky not to.

34 Grosvenor Square
London W1K 2HD
(Entrance on South Audley Street)
http://www.34-restaurant.co.uk/
Reservations: http://www.34-restaurant.co.uk/booking/
Telephone: 020 3350 3434
Open 12 noon to 10.30pm, Monday to Friday
Open 11.30am to 10.30pm, Saturday and Sunday

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A flourishing menu for combiners at the refined Ivy Chelsea Garden

The news that London’s diners, visitors and pun lovers have enjoyed hearing is that The Ivy has branched out. The premier West End establishment now has a Kings Road offshoot, and another about to open on High Street Kensington.

As the website says: “The Ivy Chelsea Garden is a casual British restaurant, serving an extensive all-day menu of food and cocktails. The restaurant, bar and café inside have an aura of approachable sophistication and familiar luxury; outside is an extensive garden, complete with a terrace and orangery.”

Absolutely. The verdant décor and airy ambience leaves a diner or cocktail-sipper at the ICG with the sensation of being elegantly entertained in a Victorian botanical garden.

Those cocktails are superb and imaginative, such as the fig undertones to the champagne in the signature Ivy Garden Royale. And the food is also fine fare, with a menu wide-ranging enough to satisfy any digestion-savvy food combiners.

My companion’s starter for a protein-based meal was superior Severn and Wye smoked salmon with crab and dill cream, omitting the granary bread. The main course was a generously portioned grilled chicken breast salad, including a small amount of quinoa, along with avocado, sesame and mixed leaves with yoghurt, ginger and lime dressing.

I opted for a moreish warm crispy duck salad, with five spice dressing on pak choi, beansprout and ginger. That was followed by a dish of grilled salmon fillet, with shaved fennel, finely pared apple and baby watercress salad and dill dressing, plus some additional spinach, which was all extremely filling.

Large mains meant no room for dessert but a couple of glasses of Ruinart rosé complimented both the meals and the garden setting. And, even better, the location might be exclusive but the prices are definitely inclusive. Perfect.

So I had to nip back and try that figgy cocktail…for research purposes…

The Ivy Chelsea Garden
197 King’s Road, London SW3 5ED
http://theivychelseagarden.com/
Reservations: http://theivychelseagarden.com/find-book/
Telephone: 020 3301 0300

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City Social: finest modern British fare with some classy combinations

A quick search for City Social describes the restaurant as “Jason Atherton’s modern British fare, served in art deco-style surroundings with 24th floor views”. While accurate, this does neither City Social’s food nor ambience their full, elevated justice.

The chic high-rise surroundings are matched by a dining experience that not only appeals to a discerning palate but is also an added delight for those of us who food-combine for health.

The menu offered numerous choices that didn’t require any adaptations. Opting for protein-based dishes, my companion plumped for a delicious, intensely flavoured starter of yellow fin tuna tataki, cucumber salad, radish, avocado and ponzu dressing. This was followed by a superb main course of Newlyn line caught cod, spicy ponzu, bok choi, squid, miso aioli and seaweed.

I chose a delicately slow cooked Tidenham duck breast with amarena cherry, pistachio yoghurt, five spice and dried vinegar. For the main course, I selected the very tender Cotswold chicken with ceps, truffle and watercress, and some seasonal greens to replace the smoked mash potatoes to ensure the dish still combined. It was excellent in flavour, texture and generosity of portion.

Alas, no room for dessert, not even a sorbet! But a glass or two of white burgundy complimented all four dishes extremely well.

A fine experience, and City Social proving that you needn’t compromise on taste and pleasure for the sake of your digestion.

City Social
Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street, London EC2N 1HQ
http://citysociallondon.com/
Tel: +44 (0)20 7877 7703
reservations@citysociallondon.com

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